The beauty trend that uses near-infrared light waves has surged in popularity – but can you achieve results at home? 

If you are interested in beauty trends and self-care, you’ve probably encountered red light therapy (RLT). Formally known as photobiomodulation, doctors first discovered that red and near-infrared light wavelengths sped hair regrowth in the late sixties. Later studies found it boosted wound healing. Since then, it has gradually entered the esthetics field, initially gaining traction as an in-office tool for post-operative recovery in plastic surgery patients, explains Dr Prem Tripathi, a facial plastic surgeon based in Alamo, California. 

By the mid 2010s, RLT devices emerged for use at home. These have surged in popularity as a non-invasive way to purportedly smooth wrinkles, heal acne and scars, improve skin tone and boost hair growth. 

The cost and style of RLT devices vary. For instance, Solawave’s red light wand costs $169, while Dr Dennis Gross’s mask costs $455 and the canopy-like Dermalux Flex MD is around $2,600. The global market for these devices is estimated at $350m in 2024; one projection suggests it will reach $620m by 2031. 

Despite the recent ubiquity of red light products, it “is an emerging therapeutic area” and there is relatively limited research into the longterm effects of at-home devices compared to more powerful in-office light therapy, says the Toronto dermatologist Dr Annie Liu. So, what do we really know about at-home red light skincare treatments, and what they can achieve? 

How does red light therapy work?“Red LED light targets cells in the skin called fibroblasts, which are crucial for producing collagen – a protein that gives skin its youthful qualities, like plumpness and elasticity,” explains Liu. RLT activates components within our cells’ mitochondria (known as the “powerhouse” of the cells due to their ability to generate chemical energy), promoting cellular repair and regeneration.“Light treatments are capable of stimulating collagen and promoting connective tissue turnover,” says Dr Praveen Arany, who specializes in wound healing and tissue regeneration at the University of Buffalo. 

Devices often come with multiple settings. A common option is a wavelength of around 630nm, which reaches a couple of millimeters into the skin’s surface – this can help improve fine lines and stimulate hair growth. Does that mean this wavelength could stimulate the growth of peach fuzz on your face? “I have heard anecdotal reports that existing facial hair will grow faster when red light LED face masks are used, but more research is definitely needed,” notes Liu. 

What makes some red light therapy devices more powerful than others?RLT devices differ in strength depending on their irradiance, or energy output, which is measured in milliwatts per square centimeter of skin. Most devices on the market offer outputs ranging from 40mW/cm² to 100mW/cm², but Tripathi notes that factors like the distance between your skin and the light source, the beam angle, and how much light your skin reflects can all affect how much energy actually penetrates the skin. 

Lower-energy devices typically require longer treatment times, while higher-power devices bring faster results that are closer to those of in-office treatments. “Generally, the more bulbs a device has, the better,” Tripathi says, as this leads to better energy distribution and more consistent results. 

In-office professional RLT tools “are usually lasers or high-power LEDs that enable more precise treatments but have higher safety requirements, meaning a higher potential for damage”, says Arany. 

Home-use RLT devices are safe enough to operate without a professional present, but much of the research informing the design of these devices “piggybacks” on studies of these more powerful, medical-grade devices, according to Tripathi. Unless a manufacturer has done independent clinical trials of a product, its claims may be based on the effects of different, stronger tools. 

“If you’re using something like a wand with very few lights, and you’re moving it across your skin, the odds of getting the right power, treatment time and beam angle are pretty low compared to what we see in the office,” says Tripathi. On TikTok, some users attempt to replicate RLT using red Christmas lights or heat lamps typically used in raising chickens, but these are unlikely to emit the correct wavelengths or enough power to benefit your skin, he adds. 

If you’re going to invest time in RLT, a product from a reputable brand tested in third party clinical trials – examples include the Mito Light Mitohacker 3.0 and the CurrentBody mask – will be your best bet. 

Will red light therapy devices really achieve visible skin improvements?RLT devices sound promising. Anecdotally, many users report a boost in glow and radiance, but Tripathi is more cautious. “There’s going to be a limit on what you see from using these devices,” he says. Think of them as a maintenance tool best used between in-office treatments, like brushing your teeth between dentist visits – “something you have to use consistently, every night, for years”.